Photos!

Oh, also! I promised some pictures, and completely forgot. Here are some, I think. I'm not entirely sure how to use this website.

The Red Fort in Delhi (I studied this in my Islamic art history class).

The largest mosque in India (in Delhi).

Some muqarnas in the Delhi mosque.

My horrible picture of some elephants on the streets of New Delhi!

The Imam told us this was a hair from the Prophet Muhammad's beard. Apparently his hair was naturally reddish, so that is why people use henna today to color their hair.

The Prophet Muhammad's sandal.

One of many cows on the streets of Varanasi.

My house-mate, Amy! (She didn't like this picture so don't tell her that I used it.)

A typical Indian storefront with snacks and water (and chai to the left of the frame).

A bad picture of me in front of a temple at Banaras Hindu University.

Godaulia, a town nearby.

The story thus far

18-09-2013

Dear friends,

Thank you for your patience with me as I bumble along with this blog. My journey thus far has been exciting and insane, but I should definitely commit to posting at least once a week, otherwise I will not be able to include everything!

We are in the middle of the third week of classes, and things have progressed. I have tried to start discussions in my class which have half worked out, but sometimes end up in tangential discussions which I still do not understand. Nevertheless, I will continue my efforts. The readings for most of the classes are interesting, but the teachers often only refer to them in passing, which can be irritating. However, I have had a couple of very fun and engaging conversations with some of my other classmates, so that certainly helps to keep me motivated.

Practical yoga classes have also started (at 6:30am on Mondays and Thursdays), and that has been interesting as well. So far what I’ve gleaned from my readings on yoga theory and my discussions with our teacher is that yoga in India is much less about the physicality of yoga and more about the mindfulness. Of course, the physical and mental efforts have to remain balanced, but I suppose I am more used to viewing yoga as a “workout,” not a time for meditation and reflection. As it starts to get cooler in Varanasi, we will move up to the roof and practice up there, which I am quite looking forward to.

We didn’t end up going to the Taj Mahal last weekend because of the train tickets. Apparently in India trains are quite popular and crowded, and therefore one must buy them significantly in advance. There are also several classes of seats that are available for purchase, some of which we were warned against. Most of the train rides tend to be fairly long (some even up to 24 hours), so they are outfitted with sleeping bunks. This Friday we are all planning to get together and buy tickets for our next completely free weekend (which is not for a while—we have field trips for classes nearly every weekend).

I definitely have to start doing research on surrounding areas, as we have a long independent travel weekend coming up, and plans need to be confirmed well ahead of the travel date. Also, my dad and Troy are planning to come visit me (!!!!), so I have to figure out the best places to take them and try to plan that out as soon as possible. Obviously the Taj Mahal is a must, but there are so many interesting things that are available (like desert camel safaris with live music and dance at night, hikes in the mountains where tigers are quite common, a city that is famous for its ghosts, and so on and so forth). I just have to figure out the right way to schedule them all and the cheapest (and safest) way to do it as well!

So far, even though I came to India concerned about safety, it hasn’t been a huge issue. Though walking on the street is always dangerous, it’s unavoidable and something that local Varanasi-goers deal with daily. People stare at me a lot and one group of Indians asked to take pictures with me, but no one has tried to kidnap or kill me (yet). People have mostly commented on my lip piercings, looking horrified when I tell them that yes, the studs go through my lip. A couple of people have also commented on my race, seeming confused when I told them I was American. I suppose they encounter mostly Caucasian visitors and tourists, but explaining that my family has lived in the U.S. for generations to shopkeepers is always slightly uncomfortable.

Actually, for the most part, we’ve been told to ignore people who specifically want our attention. Many small children greet us as we walk down the street, and while replying may seem friendly, it can also be understood as a form of encouragement and put you at risk to be pestered (and possibly pickpocketed) for a while. We are offered rickshaw rides every few steps, and shopkeepers yell out, “Madame, come look at my shop!” from every direction. I did find it amusing being called “madame” for the first few times, but I’ve decided now that I want to earn that title. Someday when I am a rich and famous _______ (fill in career), people may refer to me as Madame.

Houses tend to be dark in Varanasi (and India as a whole), which I found depressing at first. But this week I’ve attained two strings of Christmas/Diwali lights, 50 tea lights (and small clay cups to put them in), clove-scented oil, and an oil diffuser. I have also hung a tapestry near my bed. Slowly I am making it homier, which is improving my attitude towards nearly everything.

Well, this has been a long post. Before I go, I want to relate to you all something that happened yesterday. My host mother, Sarika-ji (the –ji suffix denotes admiration and respect), has a five-month-old baby boy. Now, babies in India don’t tend to wear diapers, so I am not honestly sure how their parents deal with the inevitable. However, yesterday Amy and I had a little check-in with our family and Wanda, one of our program directors, just to make sure everyone was comfortable. While we were sitting in their bedroom (which doubles as a family room with the television and air conditioner [!!!]), Sarika-ji was holding the baby up against her chest. There was a lull in the conversation when suddenly there was a huge fart (I couldn’t think of a more elegant way to say that.), and what Amy described as “curry sauce” (disgustingly accurate), shot out of the tiny baby and all over his mother. And then it happened again. All of us were cracking up, and he looked at us innocently, with a hint of confusion. Raja-ji (our host father) swept the baby into the bathroom while Sarika-ji went to clean herself up. Sometimes I think that I want to have kids, and it is times like these that make me nearly ready to take up celibacy. Well, celibate practitioners are supposed to be better at yoga anyway, and I prefer yoga to baby poop any day.

Yes, I just ended with a poop story. Sue me.

Love,

Rose

10-09-2013

10-09-2013

I made it through my first full week in Varanasi, going to classes and familiarizing myself with the area. Classes so far have been difficult for me, but unfortunately not in an intellectually challenging way. I have found out that the Indian style of teaching is one of pure lecture, which is not something I am used to at all, especially coming from Bard. The classes are also an hour and forty-five minutes, which is far too long to focus on one thing. I have also begun to have a problem that has never affected me before: falling asleep when I am bored. I suppose it’s honest, at least, but it’s a little embarrassing to be nodding off in a class where I constitute 25% of the attendees.

Today I have three classes and have already asked a fair number of questions in my first one, though the only discussion it started was one between the teacher and me. Some of my fellow students thanked me for speaking up after class, but I wish that the conversation could have been more inclusive and longer as well. Unfortunately, I think a class-wide discussion is something that needs to be facilitated by the professor. I’m going to continue my efforts this afternoon, but I might have to talk to the professors and/or the program director.

I am starting to become accustomed to life here in Varanasi. Even walking the five minutes from my house to the program house where we take classes is a different adventure every morning. Today I almost slipped on a big cow pie on my way to class! Luckily I had bought some exceptionally ugly flip-flops to trade out for my beloved Birkenstocks, at least for the rainy season.

I am still a little sick, and want to get rid of this cold as soon as possible. Our group of students is planning to possibly go to Agra this weekend to visit the Taj Mahal! That would be something. But it would be more enjoyable if I were entirely healthy. Fingers crossed.

Love,

Rose

P.S. I am planning to post some pictures later today, so stay tuned!

03-09-2013

03-09-2013

Happy Tuesday! Today was my second day of classes. I have “City of Confluence,” “Women, Development, and Environment,” and “Living Religious Traditions” on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Yoga will start next week and will be from 6:30am to 8am, so I will be even busier then. It seems that Monday, Wednesday, and Friday will be my light days. I’m excited to be able to explore a bit more, although traveling alone as a woman is not always safe, especially at night. However, learning Hindi will absolutely help me get around.

There are nine students (including me) in the program, and there are several different electives, so our largest class size is still quite cozy. I think I don’t tend to participate much in large classes because I don’t know everyone and I’m afraid they will judge me. So far in this context, though, this has not been the case. I have always tried to push myself to contribute more instead of taking the role of the observer, and perhaps this is the place to really perfect that.

 It’s only about 1:20 in the afternoon as I write this, but I am already exhausted! It might be due to some cough syrup I took earlier today. Whatever the case, I am definitely planning on taking a nap as soon as I get home. I have already finished all the work for this week because I am neurotic, so I actually have nothing to do when I finish class. We are starting out slowly, but I suspect that this program will not assign the amount of work I am used to having at Bard (which is a ridiculous amount).

Love,

Rose

30-08-2013

30-08-2013

Today was an incredibly exhausting day. We woke up early to leave for the Delhi airport, and caught our flight to Varanasi at around 11:00. The flight was incredibly bumpy, and it had the most violent landing that I have ever experienced. Oh, and did I mention that it is still monsoon season? Well it is, as today demonstrated. It was raining on and off from when we woke up until after dinner, though it was still incredibly humid and hot. After we landed, we packed our things into two separate cars and drove off. The ride was estimated at an hour and a half, though the distance itself was not great. As we got further away from the airport, the paved roads turned into smooth dirt roads, which gave way to a series of potholes placed randomly all over the path. (On top of that, Indian traffic is possibly the most frightening thing I have ever encountered. There don’t seem to be any rules, and though stop signs and dividing lines exist, they are viewed as mere suggestions. Indian drivers use their horns so frequently [and often for seconds on end] that it becomes almost comical.  They honk when there are pedestrians, they honk when someone is too close or they are trying to swerve in, and they honk back and forth at one another, though no one seems to take it personally.) Though the car ride was rather nauseating, looking at the scenery passing by was a lot of fun. We saw many many people and lots of animals (especially cows) as well. The ample foliage thinned and eventually disappeared as we reached the heart of Varanasi.

We had some rickshaw drivers take our baggage to each respective house, and we all went into the Program Center House. It is down an alleyway next to the cinema and past several cows, if you are wondering how to get there. The center was aggressively air conditioned, which was a welcome relief from the sweltering heat and relentless humidity of the outdoors. We left most of our things while we went on “tours” of Varanasi, led by two members of the Alliance (for Global Education, not the Alliance that the browncoats opposed, keep in mind). Unfortunately, minutes into our walk, it began to pour again. We had all been given umbrellas and we unfurled them, but they were no match for an Indian monsoon. Soon, the streets began to flood, and we were forced to wade through ankle-deep water. All I could think about was the number of cow patties I had seen on the roads earlier, and how they were now part of the soup I was mixing with my feet.

Eventually we made it back, but by that time the majority of us were soaked, and the air conditioning was not as welcome as it had been earlier. We sat down and I put my belongings away eagerly, hoping we would finally get to go to our host family’s house. I was sorely disappointed when we had to endure yet another lecture on health and how to contact doctors and such. As I mentioned, I felt quite sick the other day, and this illness had not quite left me. Sitting in a frigid room with dripping clothing, as you can imagine, didn’t quite do the trick either.

When we finally were given leave to go, I felt sicker and also much less excited to meet my host family than I had been previously, just because of the general exhaustion. We walked the distance to their house (it was still soupy but not actually raining anymore), and went in. We met our new Indian family, Raja the father, Sarika the mother, Riti the daughter, and the new baby son and grandmother whose names have slipped my mind. Amy and I, it turns out, have separate rooms, each with our own private bathroom! Hers has a western toilet, and mine has an Indian toilet. I have accepted the challenge, and will prove to myself that I can overcome my bathroom anxiety here.

Dinner was delicious and handmade, and we talked to Raja and Satika while we ate. Raja speaks fairly good English, and Satika speaks spottily, but is obviously eager to learn. I was embarrassed that I didn’t know anything in Hindi to support my end of the conversation. I have washed all my dirty clothing (most of it by hand), and hung a lot of it in strange places in the bathroom and around my room. I hope it all dries by tomorrow, because I literally have no clothes left. I am only sleeping in underwear because I have nothing else (the heat also contributed to this decision). The rooms are simple and furnished with a desk, bed, and lockable cabinet, which is great. I have put my valuables and clothing in there, and tried to put some other objects out on the shelves to make the room look friendlier. As of now, my efforts have been in vain, but I assume as I acquire more tchotchkes (whoa, I never knew that’s how that word was spelled. Thanks, Microsoft!), the room will fill up. The things on my shelf are the two books I brought (Sherlock Holmes and The Fifth Head of Cerberus), three bottles of potable water, my glasses, and my two journals (one for me to write in, and one that Lucy gave me full of amazing bestie memories. I haven’t needed to look at it yet from homesickness, but it is right there just in case).

I am now lying in bed typing this up, as I feel I should have a bit more on my blog. We will get our cell phones with SIM cards and Internet sticks on Monday, though, so then I’ll be able to update more often. Tomorrow we will all meet our “student buddies” (BHU students who have volunteered to become our Indian connections and show us around a bit), and we’ll walk to Lanka and familiarize ourselves with the place. We will also meet them on Sunday for chai, I think. Later on, we are allowed to call them and try to make a more personal connection to them and the place itself. I am excited to meet my buddy and also to invite her to go for chai and movies and music things!

There is so much more I want to say, but I am sick and tired and nearly falling asleep at my computer. Love you all.

Rose

29-08-2013

 29-08-2013

Dear, dear readers:

Hello from India! Sorry I haven’t updated in a while. I got to New Delhi safely after 34 ½ hours of traveling. Whoop whoop! We have had an orientation here, and are flying to Varanasi tomorrow to meet our host families and familiarize ourselves with the city a little bit. The last couple of days have consisted of a few outings in the morning and going over rules and what to expect when we actually start the program. We’ve looked at a preliminary copy of our schedules for the semester, and it looks like I will be quite busy! I am taking beginning Hindi, “City of Confluence” about Varanasi and its history, yoga and yoga theory, a class on gender, and a class on religious theology.

I am living with a host family that consists of a mother and father, an eight-year-old girl, a newborn baby, and a grandmother. I am rooming with another girl in my program, Amy. She seems really sweet and excited, and I’m looking forward to getting to know her better. She also recently completed her yoga certification, so I’m sure she can help me with my yoga technique!

Unfortunately, I seem to have come down with something. I have a painfully sore throat and have already lost my lunch. One of the other girls, Elise, had some side effects from the malaria medicine she was taking that were similar to mine. I’m hoping they will go away soon. As in right now. (Though I am watching The Matrix, and Keanu Reeves always helps everything.)

Other than that, though, things are going swimmingly. It’s quite hot and humid, and I’m sweating buckets, even minutes after I get out of a cold bucket shower. The other day, we went and bought some lovely Indian clothes, and though the loose pants do help to keep me cool, the kurta, or top dress-like piece, is made of thick cotton and is rather warm. Women also wear dupattas, long, wide scarves that can be wrapped around one’s head to keep off the sun. I bought two outfits (which came to about $50 for six items), and am planning on getting some more clothes tailor-made in Varanasi.

I am now at an exciting part of The Matrix, so I must sign off. Also maybe to toss my cookies just one more time.

Love always,

Rose

Hello, lovely readers!

Today starts the first day of my overseas adventures. First, I suppose I'd better explain the name of this blog. At first, I felt stuck in terms of writing, as I felt that I needed to have a witty and alliterative title for my blog. I have finally settled upon this title, though. For as long as I can remember, my father and I have driven down to Los Angeles to visit our extended family (though only recently have I started to pitch in in terms of driving time). We have a tradition of stopping at Andersen's Pea Soup, a large restaurant with a windmill-like apparatus stuck on the outside, located in the heat of Santa Nella, California. We usually order something called the "Travelers' Special," which, along with endless vegetarian pea soup, includes bread and a drink of your choice.

As this has long been an important landmark for me, I've decided to name my blog after this delicious menu choice. While it refers to a specific item, I also hope that this phrase can be broadened to the larger scope of my adventures this semester. I want to see everything with new eyes and partake in as much as I possibly can. Everything can be a travelers' special! And this traveler is ready for all the excitement (pea soup-related or not) that awaits her.